I’m super pleased to be hosting a guest tutorial from Sew Over It as part of Sewing Indie Month and what a useful subject – how to add slanted pockets to a skirt. Over to you ladies…..
We’re so excited to be featured on the MIY Collection blog as part of Sewing Indie Month. Today we’re bringing you a tutorial on how to add slanted pockets to a skirt – because they’re more interesting than in-seam pockets and they look pretty!
We decided to draft a simple gathered skirt for this tutorial, but you could alter a pattern you already have if you prefer.
It’s really easy to create your own pattern – it’s just two rectangles!
For a 72cm waist and a fairly heavily gathered skirt, our front piece measures 48.5cm across and the back skirt pattern piece measures 50cm. If you prefer a more gently gathered skirt, simply reduce the width of your pattern. Just make sure it is at least 10cm larger than your actual waist measurement.
The length of your skirt is up to you. Just don’t forget to factor in seam and hem allowance too. We went for 69cm to create a classic midi length.
To create your waistband, add 3cm of seam allowance to your waist measurement for the width. The height of your waistband is up to you – just remember it will be folded in half, and to add in 3cm for the seam allowance. For a 4cm wide waistband the height of your pattern piece would be 14cm.
As for the pockets, we wanted ours to be nice and deep so we made the opening 10cm wide and 18cm long, with the actual pocket measuring around double this both ways. Lots of room to get your hands in!
Slanted pocket construction requires three different pattern pieces:
- front skirt
- pocket lining
- the pocket facing
To make things easier we’re just going to draw all the pocket markings straight onto the front skirt pattern piece. Mark your pocket opening and pocket lining markings onto the pattern and join each part together in a curve. It helps to use a pattern master to do this.
The pocket facing is then created from these pieces. It’s essentially the pocket lining with the pocket opening cut away.
Trace the pocket lining and the pocket facing from the markings you have made and cut these pieces out. Cut away the pocket opening from the front skirt pattern piece.
Once you have all your pattern pieces cut out, cut your pieces out in your fabric. For the pocket facing we have chosen to use a contrast fabric to add a bit of interest.
Now onto the sewing!
With right sides together match up your front skirt piece and your pocket facing and stitch in place around the pocket opening. To reduce bulk we like to sew the pocket seams with a 1cm seam allowance.
To help the seam sit flat, clip into the curves and then press. Understitch the facing side to keep it anchored inside the pocket. Press again, slightly rolling the seam to the inside.
Pin the pocket lining to the pocket facing around the long outside curve. Again with a 1cm seam allowance, sew in place and press. To stop this raw edge from fraying, finish it with a zigzag stitch or overlocker.
Your pocket is now mostly constructed (woohoo!), but to help it stay in place whilst you sew up the rest of the skirt, it’s a good idea to machine tack it to the front skirt piece at the top edge and the side seams.
Once you have done this, sew up the rest of the skirt as normal. Sew the front and back at the side seams and your gathering stitching, insert the zip at the back and sew up the centre back seam. Gather up the waist of the skirt and attach the waistband before hemming and then voila!
You now have a lovely skirt with even lovelier pockets!
I do love this sort of pocket, lots of my students who have never made them before think they’re really complicated, so they’re one of my favourites to demystify in class and as you can see from this tutorial, they’re actually pretty easy. Thanks to Lisa and the Sew Over It team for such a useful and clear tutorial!